I only truly enjoyed about 3 hours of today, and unfortunately that was all time spent off the bike.
I woke up at 1.30am. My phone let out an alarm i’d never heard before and some Japanese characters flashed on the screen. Seconds later the ground began to wobble. Like it was temporarily made of jelly and I was lying right on top of it. I was still half asleep and fell asleep fully again soon after. The alarm/text message was a government issued earthquake warning, the wobble was the earthquake, a tiny bit of the force that has caused a lot of Kyushu I didn’t process this fully until later in the morning.
I woke at six and there was mist passing across the lake I was camped in front of. I had to fix a puncture on my rear wheel. I also noticed I had one loose and one bent spoke. I’d have to get that looked at in Hiroshima later. I put in a new tube and fumbled with the pump i’d had unused attached to my frame. It took me too long to figure out how to get it to work with presta valves and my idea of going to look at Miyajimas red gate in the sea before all the tourists arrived had to be abandoned.
I packed my stuff and paid the 500 yen for the camp spot and walked along the beach a little where some deer where gathered.
Ferries were docking full with people, most hanging out near the beach to photograph the shrine in the sea. I decided to take the cable car up to Mt. Misen. I’d done this 6 years ago, but had strong memories of the hike down and find it hard to refuse travelling by cable car so I locked my bike near the sea and headed up, passing five women taking their dogs out for a stroll.
The cable cars were old and had abstract decals of trees on them. People didn’t want to share them and each couple or family waited for their own private car. I had my own too.
It was hot at the top and there was a good view over the inland sea below. I ate a bowl of noodles with beef and curry. I’d had exactly the same meal in 2008. Although it’s a simple, cheap, probably not especially well made dish it had stuck with me for a long time, so I had to have it again. It was just as good as I remembered. Made all the better with the view.
The summit was another 30 minutes up, but I decided to take the easier and cooler route down in the shade of trees, alongside a stream which trickled down. It was a peaceful walk. I exchanged a lot of ‘konichiwa’s’ with Japanese hikers heading upwards. I was happier taking the easier route after the miles i’d covered in the two previous days.
When I got back to my bike it was surrounded by three deer eating the food I had in a bag strapped to the back. A bunch of gormless American school kids were taking photos. I let the deers have the food. My saddle had bite marks and there was deer saliva over my coat and tent. They must have been hungry.
I got the ferry back to the mainland and began the 10 or so miles into Hiroshima. What seemed straightforward on the map, an hours ride, seemed to take more like two. Bike paths led into the city, I think, but I kept losing them, getting lost down dead end side roads or ending up on busy highways.
It was frustrating but I eventually made it to the Peace Park where I laid in the sun for a while. I’d seen the museum before, so was happy just to enjoy not cycling and the good weather and atmosphere of the park. It was one of those days, or places, where the bike felt like a burden and I just wanted to lock it to something and leave it there.
But I carried on, to Okonomimura. A building dedicated to Okinomoyaki – a famous dish of Hiroshima. I’d also been here years ago, and ever since have tried to find it. Over several floors are dozens of okonmiyaki sellers. Each with their own special ambience of twist on the dish. I was tired and hungry and just picked one which seemed busy but not too busy. It was great with the beer I had, and filling.
I felt full, probably too full. But wanted to get out of the city that night so continued to cycle, struggling again to find the right roads which would take me quickly and safely out of there. I made a stop at a dirty looking roadside bike shop where I guy in a mask made some attempt at fixing my rear wheel. It was definitely an improvement but not perfect. 800 yen. It would do for now.
The city seemed to go on a while, then smaller, busy little cities followed. I found route 34 eventually, a steep winding road which didn’t have the luxury of space for cars and bicycles. A small line of cars built up behind me as I struggled up the hill. I cycled into a bollard and tore a pannier off. Though I know it is totally futile, I will never stop swearing at my bike or the mountains.
I put my stuff back on and cut my hand on the brake cable. It was one of those days.
The climb went on for far too long. Each bend felt like the last, until finally it was. I had began to realise that stopping is actually harder than carrying on, no matter how slowly. I summited pouring with sweat, briefly enjoying the small victory before realising i’d need to find somewhere to camp very soon.
Japan is more populated than Korea. And close to a town it’s hard to find barely any land which isn’t private or built on. I cycled around the outskirts of Kumano trying to find anything. I went further into town, past a huge neon casino and garage, then took a turn out of town. It was mainly farmland but I found a spot close to a river behind a building of some kind. It seemed secluded enough not to offend anyone, and I set an alarm for sunrise so i’d get out of there early.
I began to plan the next couple of days and looked into campsite and couchsurfing options to avoid the stress of finding a wild spot.
Though I was enjoying the more adventurous side to cycling in Japan, vs the well marked, leisurely paths of Korea, I did miss the greater sense of space and the feeling you’d be safe camping more or less wherever you liked. But I was tired and had had a bad day. I looked forward to tomorrow, the downhill to the inland sea, and the small coastal towns toward Onomichi.
Playlist
LCD Soundsystem – Sound of Silver
Map (via Strava)