I’d been looking forward to today’s ride since arriving in Japan, riding Shimanami Kaito over the inland sea. A cycle path connecting six islands, ending in Inabari where i’d spend the night. The truth is it was a little anticlimactic, not helped by a bad nights sleep and bleak, overcast weather which matched my sluggish mood. I stopped and started a lot, got too hot then too cold, and couldn’t connect with the surroundings the way I had a few days ago.
Despite the repetitive nature of cycling, each day has a unique mood. This usually came from a combination of surroundings, the weather, the music I listened to, among other things. It made each day worth looking forward to.
I tried and failed to make fresh hot coffee with my stove in the morning, i’d not used in over two weeks and struggled to light the wood i’d collected which was probably still a little damp from the rain a few days ago. So I vended a can of ice coffee, only for it to come out piping hot. Either a malfunction of the machine, or the cans are heated in the morning.. something i’ll have to investigate.
I made the most of the free wifi in the park, looking at the route across the islands, and seeing if there was anything worth detouring for along the way, but mainly I was distracted with other internet things i’d lived without for the last few days.
The sky was grey and the scenery i’d been inspired by the previous night felt flat and lifeless now it was morning. I forced myself back on my bike and began following the blue markings not the road which led through the islands, stopping for a coffee and more supplies soon after setting out. I’d been carrying a bunch of instant coffee from Korea, and it’s easy to just pop into a 7-11 here and take some of their boiling water to make it with. The coffee was ok. But any chance to save a little bit of money now i’d try and take.
The islands were all mountainous and green in the middle with industrial looking buildings and ports around the outside. There were also a lot of orange and lemon trees and you could smell these as you breezed by.
Oshima, the last, biggest island was more rewarding. After crossing he bridge on to it I stopped and spoke to a guy from Liverpool heading the opposite direction, and a couple of guys from San Francisco heading my way, they had matching black and pink outfits much lighter, faster bikes. One of them worked in tech in some way, and he took down my portfolio web address. The sun had finally come out and I felt more energised having had a bit of conversation and a break.
I took a longer, more scenic route around this island, or the ‘Island Explorer’ route as the markings on the road called it. It took in some much quieter roads which followed the ins and outs of the islands coastline, some challenging climbs, and rewarding views of perfect empty beaches and small fishing villages.
The exit from the island via a 4km series of suspension bridges, so big I have no idea how you would even begin trying to build them. The route up to the bridge was an insane rollercoaster of a curved pathway, seemingly suspended in space. It’s the photo that’s always used when promoting Shimanami Kaito, rightly so, though I had imagined the whole route taking place upon futuristic sky tracks like this.
The bridge was steep and windy. The water below was a deep turquoise colour which blended with the yellow sand as it me t the shore. Viewed from above this formed a pleasing gradient. The bridge crossed several small, uninhabited islands before meeting the mainland. The track descending the same way it had rose on the other side. After the slow crossing of the bridge in the wind it was a relief to let gravity take hold.
The centre of Inabari was a few miles away, mostly downhill. The buildings seemed mainly grey and beige, a little plain, but I was happy to be in the city with the promise of a bed and a day of rest tomorrow.
My hostel, Cycle No Ie, was specifically designed for cycling tourists. Shimanami Kaito draws people in for day trips down from the rest of Japan and worldwide – in fact it’s the only time so far i’ve seen other tourist cyclists on my route so far.
Even by the high standards of Asian hostels it was exceptional in it’s design and organisation. It was made of wood and there was a place for everything. Even a small library of cycling books.
I washed my clothes and began to think about my route up to Tokyo after chatting with one of the staff who had, over the course of 6 years, cycled around the entire coast of Japan.
Jazz music played quietly in the reception and I sat at a table studying a map.
Playlist
Land of Talk – It’s Okay, Pixies – Wave of Mutilation (UK Surf), Mark Kozelek & Jimmy LaValle – He Always Felt Like Dancing
Map (via Strava)