Wednesday, May 17th
A landmark day – my first 100 miles, 101 to be exact, over 8 or so hours. When you cycle that long and see so much it’s hard to know exactly how to summarise it and I feel like I’ve already forgotten most of it, but reaching that number, as trivial as it seems, feels like a big achievement given I would sometimes struggle to reach even half that in any given day in Korea.
In fairness I had weather and terrain in my favour. The route was largely flat – a handful over very short climbs. The weather was overcast at first but bright and clear and warm for most of the afternoon.
I changed my plans and decided I’d stay in New York, rather than head through Pennsylvania. It felt like backtracking, and despite more miles, the up-then-across route should (according to Google) have kinder terrain.
I left the town of cold spring around 7.30 after picking up coffee in town. I’d been undisturbed in my camp spot, but adjusting the the thinner, summer sleeping bag I know had might take a bit of time as I woke up several times in the night with cold legs, i’m sure I would toughen up.
From Cold Spring I headed to Poughkepsie. Another small Hudson town I’d visited in Autumn last year. The route was fairly straightforward, back on the number 9 bike route to begin with. I stopped a Panera Bread for coffee and some oatmeal. So far at least if felt like I was eating slightly healthier than Japan, or at least balancing out the doughnuts with some healthier options. I was aiming for at least some kind of fruit everyday, and more nuts and seeds instead of chocolates and fried chicken.
I got lost around at a big junction. Every direction looked identical. Highway and chain restaurants. Eventually I found my way to the duchess rail trail. A flat, mostly straight and well surfaced trail, presumably a rail route in the past, which led all the way to Poughkepsie. You could cycle it with your eyes shut, and at times I did just to make sure. I kept up a fast pace, and was in the town by 11.
One reason I’d wanted to go by Poughkepsie was a Mexican restaurant where I’d had the best torta I’ve ever had (despite spending a month and a half in Mexico since). I took the sandwich to the walkway over he Hudson – another reclaimed rail track now pedestrian/cycle track, crossing right over the river.
I cycled halfway then ate (demolished) my sandwich. It was just as I remembered.
I talk to a guide briefly about the history of the bridge and the millions it cost but I didn’t hang around much longer. My next stop was Redhook. Inbetween were many pleasant easy miles on fairly quiet country roads. Occasionally these passed through quiet neighbourhoods or houses with picket fences and American flags angled from the porch or painted on the mail box. This site was yet to grow old. There was something I found fascinating about looking at these old wooden houses, as if they were each a cover to some unwritten Raymond carver story.
Redhook seem like a cheerful college town. I stopped for coffee Taste Budd’s cafe. Inside students huddled around laptops, outside locals enjoying the sunshine, and, if I overheard correctly, some seriously considering voting for Trump.
Next came Greenport and Hudson, it felt like the further north I headed the less evenly wealth was distributed. Where as Cold Spring had cute antique shops and coffee shops, these towns began to feel more rundown and generic. But my route often skirted around the outside so it was unfair to write these places off, despite my first impressions.
A large quantity and variety or roadkill out on these country roads, including:
– 2 deer
– 5 raccoons
– 1.5 eagles (?)
– countless squirrels
– 3 chipmunks
After reaching Hudson it was only 5. Again I was surprised by how light it was and how much more distance I could cover now the sunset was so late. It was really up to me how far I wanted to push myself.
And so I decided I’d continue on, an extra 22 miles, taking my 78 to 100, to Schodack Island State Park, a slither of land in the Hudson i’d been eyeing up in the morning – though at that point it felt rather out of reach. I quickly drank a coffee an Arizona ice tea and are and ice cream sandwich then got back on my bike.
The route was along the 9J, perhaps the most scenic road yet. It curved towards the Hudson, rising and falling and providing glimpses of the river through the trees. It fell in altitude and ran alongside the railway track. There were no cars. It was a little erie, like a shot from the Twin Peaks titles where industry meets rampant nature. The weather was fading, but it was beautiful nonetheless, and I enjoyed the isolation, knowing the park wasn’t far away.
I passed by more interesting looking houses which again stirred my curiosity. Some with knick knacks and flags in the windows, an ageing Mercedes Benz abandoned in front.
Just before the park I cycled beneath two huge bridges – one new(er) one carrying cars, a second ancient bridge carrying trains. The rusting dystopian legs supporting it felt like they could collapse at any time.
I found the entrance to the park, the road curved around and led inside. At the front gate a reception which was empty, I knocked several times but no answer. I entered the park and looked around. A number of RV’s setting up camp. Toilets which showers. The campsite had only opened this year and felt new and clean.
I reached 100 miles.
Eventually I bumped into the ranger in his car. ‘How much?’ I asked. ‘$17.75′ he replied from his car window. It was getting late and I was tired. This seemed like a high price for a piece of ground to put a tent but I agreed and followed him back to the reception window. I filled out a form. When he saw my address was in the UK he said I’d need to pay an extra $5 out of state fee. At first I though this was a joke, as I was English, but it became apparent that comedy of this subtlety was beyond his grasp. I made out I was in the process of moving to New York and put Will’s address and paid the slightly smaller fee.
It was nice to put up a tent without worrying about being caught and the shower was appreciated. I’d take another one in the morning to get my money’s worth.
I ate the sushi I had bought yesterday. Some bread and peanut butter and tomatoes. I could feel the distance I’d covered in my legs, though I didn’t feel especially tired. That would hit me tomorrow.
Covering this kind of distance meant some sacrifices. Less stopping, fewer photos perhaps. But it felt like today the balance was about right. It made me think about why I was doing this. And a big part of the reason is the challenge of endurance and distance. I don’t want to disengage with my surroundings, and there’s a balance i’ll need to strike, but in the meantime i’m enjoying the pace i’m setting and seeing my dot on the map move a little bit more North and soon, West.
Map
