Saturday, July 16th
Silver Gate is only one mile from Yellowstone North East entrance. I took the morning slowly and coasted the final mile of the Beartooth highway to the park entrance just before 11. Yesterday was maybe my best day of the trip, the climb, the mountains, the strange old place I’d ended up staying.
I made oatmeal in the industrial style kitchen inside the lodge. The place was had at atmosphere a little like a hostel or a hotel without the staff.
I looked through a brochure on The best bits of Yellowstone and tried to figure out a route through the park. I decided I’d make my way across it in just two or three days, and see what I could off the main roads which run like arteries through the park, pumping sightseers along to where they need to be. I knew that taking some side roads, doing more hikes off the beaten track etc would be a more authentic experience, but I also knew I had a flight to catch in almost less than three weeks. I was happy to settle for seeing it over experiencing it.
Entrance to the park cost $15 on a bike, I paid and began the 30 mile ride to Tower Junction, where I’d then fork of to Yellowstone Canyon and aim to find a place in the campsite in the village there. 50 miles total.
I’d stayed up late and the lack of sleep combined with the 15000 or so feet I’d climbed in the last three days was taking its toll on me. I was low on energy and a little low on enthusiasm, despite the endlessly beautiful surroundings I now found myself in.
After the road passed through a wooded area at the entrance it emerged on meadowy planes where buffalo roomed, or stood. A slight sulphuric smell in the air indicated hot springs nearby, through the most dramatic geysers were on the other side of the park.
A field full of grazing bison came into view. Parked cars were a good indicator for any wildlife on display. A few people fly fished in the rivers I passed, some people just poked oversized Dslrs from car windows and sunroofs.
The wind was strong, the road was narrow and bumpy and I was looking forward to a coffee and a break.
I had a climb waiting in the afternoon, and took a chance to stop when I reached the junction which joined the main loop road. The road smoothe out here and with any luck I’d have the wind on my back for part of the ascent.
I drank two large cups of coffee at the gas station to try and wake myself up. I began to notice how the closer you got to the park the more prices went up. Now I was actually inside just a regular crappy gas station coffee cost over $2.50.
I returned to my bike feeling perkier . Queueing for the toilet I spoke to a few seniors taking a coach tour of the park. It seemed our aims were slightly different – they wanted to see as much wildlife as they could, I wanted to avoid if I could help it.
The climb was long and tiring. It was a much smaller jump in elevation than yesterday, only around 3000ft or so, but the switchbacks were set far apart and the gradual, slow rise in incline wore me down.
It felt my natural state right now was going uphill. Another reason I was happy to be travelling East to West was that it had allowed my fitness to improve to the point where I could tackle these mountains without too much trouble. Even since crossing the Big Horn mountains a few days ago I felt my technique or stamina had improved.
I stopped at an overlook of Calcite Springs. A deep canyon with rich blue water with swirls of oil and sulphur. It looked like an oil painting the colours were so thick and rich.
Next came Tower Falls. But I decided to move on. If I got off my bike at every overlook or short hike I wouldn’t get anywhere. So I just kept on for the next 15 miles. Occasionally cars would jam up behind me as the road was to narrow and bendy to overtake safely. I’d read that Yellowstone wasn’t great for cyclists. In fact I think more accurately cyclists aren’t good for the drivers in Yellowstone. I was quite happy cycling away as car after car went by.
The views on the way up were great, a little less dramatic and glacial than yesterday, but still quite stunning. I’d definitely adjusted to being in the mountains and if you’d dropped me here directly from a corn field in Iowa my mind would have been blown.
Towards the top of the climb were sections were the trees were felled or burnt. I wasn’t sure what was accident or deliberate and felt a little bit in the dark about Tellowstone as a whole – how this stuff came to be here and what made it so special.
After some slight downhills which I could glide on, there was one final half mile uphill to Dunraven Pass. I was expecting some kind of sign to mark the elevation. All there was was a toilet and a car park. I decided to head straight down.
Usually when I reach the top of a climb I’m reluctant to head down right away, it feels like you undo all the hard work and sweat you just poured out. But this time I just wanted to get down. I dropped nearly 2000ft what seemed like 10 mins. I was hitting the speed limit – 25mph. Perhaps the best way to enjoy the climb is to rush right down after all.
I reached Canyon Village, one of a number of areas in the park that collect together a gift shop, restaurants, a general store, visitors centre and camping.
The good thing about camping here is there is a ‘hiker/biker’ rate: $8 vs the normal $30. I pay and listen carefully to all the bear information. There are lockers to store your food. All bins are bear proof. I walk around with my bear bell attached and my bear spray in my pocket. My fear is very real. I look forward to being back on my bike in daylight tomorrow.
Map