Monterey – Pfeiffer Big Sur – Kirk Creek
Breakfast in Monterey Bay consisted of pancakes which were automatically cooked and dispensed via a small conveyer belt from a machine in the motel lobby. Like this. A finer example of American engineering i’ve yet to see.
For a change, it was sunny. We had coffee and rolled out of town with a new found sense of optimism and dryness.
After Monterey we hit by Carmel-By-The-Sea which must be some of the primest real estate on the Californian coast. I didn’t know it at the time, but there’s a Frank Lloyd Wright house perched on the waterfront.
It took a little time and some hills to navigate back to the highway, but we soon came to a junction which offered what appeared to be the last opportunity to stock up on things before continuing along one of the more remote stretches of the highway heading through Big Sur.
We sat outside at the back of a Starbucks facing a car park and contemplated the road ahead as we drank large synthetic drinks.
The sun didn’t hold. By the time we reached Rocky Creek bridge things were grey and squally again. The coastline more rugged and wild, the views stunning, but the wildlife friendly.
We reached Pfeiffer Big Sur Campground in the mid-afternoon and set up a base for the night. It was a big campground, but somewhat uninspiring. It was frustrating knowing Pfeiffer Beach was nearby, but yet, so far. Hunkered down in the trees and mud, the sounds and smells of the Pacific were well out of reach.
On the upside, we’d made good time and – at least until the rain hit – this provided some rest and reflection. The entrance to the campsite also boasted a gift shop that gave us something to do for a good 45 minutes.
Then the rain started again. We made a decision to pull the trigger on a tarp we’d seen in the gift shop. I think it cost about $20 but may have been the best $20 spent on the entire trip.
Until that point we’d been more than a little preoccupied with how the trip maybe hadn’t quite lived up to the images in our head of California in late May, at least mine. Here we were, in a partially flooded campground, with damp clothes and shoes and spirits.
The tarp provided much needed distraction and we spent the best part of an hour setting it up in such a way which covered our bikes, part of the picnic table, and the fire – whilst allowing room for smoke to escape.
Between us we had a bungee cord and a small amount of nylon cord. We looked in neighbouring fire pits and were able to find some charred string which we tied together, eventually giving us enough material to attach the tarp to the surrounding trees. The angle of it was key, tilted just slightly to encourage water in the opposite direction to the fire.
We felt so proud it gave us a high that lasted all night. Our tents were positioned close to the fire, and though the rain slowly killed this in the night, the satisfaction of suspending a large square of polyester in the air keep us warm for much longer.
Day 4, by the numbers:
Things were drier the next morning. We used the tarp supports to get some sun and air on our towels and tents and we continued further into Big Sur. The tarp now neatly rolled and secured to the back of Lee’s bike.
A few miles in we stopped for $17 burgers at Big Sur Bakery and felt invigorated amongst the surrounding garden full of succulents.
At last there was some sun again and we took the opportunity to stop where we could to soak it up.
Overlooking McWay Falls, unfortunately the surrounding trails were closed, still, not the worst view.
Feeling a little drained we stopped at Lucia Lodge and drank Coke in the sun, filled up on water, and a few more snacks – on this stretch of road it never felt like you could be over prepared.
The day’s riding ended at Kirk Creek Campground – a destination we’d been looking forward to ever since planning the trip back in March, and even more so after some of the suffering of the last four days. It didn’t disappoint.
We had spot 008, and put up our tents on the soft pacific grass. It was stunning. And with RV’s disallowed, the place attracted a different crowd, which gave it a simpler, back to basics ambience which it’s hard to find it many American campsites.
We took dinner and the small amount of beer we were able to carry down to the rocks below and drank it all in.
Later, we followed some guys down to the lower end of the campsite, through some tall grass and scrubland and down some rocks with a rope knotted to a tree until we emerged on a cliffs edge which revealed the most stunning of sunsets.
I can confidently say it was the best one I have ever seen. I still look at this video on my phone to remind myself that it wasn’t a simulation.
Little did we know what was ahead of us when the sun would rise again the following day.
Day 5, by the numbers: